Cumberland Island- Reds in the Grass and More

by John Kumiski

Tails waved in a big field of tall grass. My son Maxx waded through knee deep water, waving a graphite wand, receiving advice from our guide, Captain Russell Tharin. A counterfeit crab landed with a small "splat" in front of one of the feeding fish, connected to Maxx's wand by a line that looked like a spider's thread suspended in the grass. There was a rush and a swirl, and Maxx's wand bent over double.

There was a commercial on local television here in Orlando which showed a fly fisherman casting in the middle of a large wheat field. The angler hooks a loaf of bread, which jumps around and generally raises Cain in the wheat. It's a very amusing commercial. Fishing the flood tides in the salt marshes behind Cumberland Island reminded me of this ad, except we were fishing for redfish instead of loaves of bread.

When the spring tides flood the marshes along Cumberland Sound, redfish move up on top of the marsh to search the fields for crabs- fiddler, blue, or mud crabs in the tall Spartina grass that grows so profusely. These marshes are among the most biologically productive areas on earth.

One in a long string of barrier islands protecting the southeastern seaboard of the United States, 16 mile long and three mile wide Cumberland Island sprawls along the southern Georgia coast. St. Andrews Inlet, Georgia's largest, lies to the north. St. Mary's Inlet slices Cumberland Island from Amelia Island to the south. Cumberland Sound and thousands of acres of fertile salt marsh separates Cumberland from the Georgia mainland.

As you approach Cumberland Island from the mainland the expanse of this salt marsh impresses you with its size and subtle beauty. The island cloaks itself mostly with dense live oak forests, which blend into the dune and beach areas along the ocean side. Some of the dunes rise as much as 50 feet above sea level. Although the island has a long history of human settlement, today it is mostly uninhabited. Walking along the old roads you'll get a true feeling of wilderness, especially when you see some of the plentiful wildlife the island supports.

In the 1500's the Spanish released horses on Cumberland. There are still about 200 wild horses there today, roaming freely as they wish. It's a strange feeling to be surf-casting off the beach and see (and hear!) these great beasts grazing along the dunes behind you.

Calusa Indians had settled on Cumberland at least 3,000 years ago, attracted by the rich fish and shellfish resources of the island, marshes, and surrounding waters. Many of their middens remain, composed primarily of oyster shells, and identifiable by the alkaline loving cedar trees which grow around them. Farming, logging, and other commercial activities on the island ended in 1972 when the National Park Service began administering it as a national seashore.

Late one autumn afternoon, a spring tide begins to flood the grasses of the salt marsh. A fiddler crab leaves its burrow and climbs a cordgrass stem, searching in the leaf nodes for the bits of organic matter it uses as food. Intent upon its feeding, it fails to notice a redfish working its way through the flooded grasses. The redfish detects a bit of movement, and in an instant the hapless crab disappears into the redfish's maw, its fate sealed by the crushers in the fish's throat.

The salt marshes provide one of the most unique fly rod fisheries imaginable on spring tides during the late spring, summer, and early fall. Hungry redfish enter the flooding marsh searching for crabs. As they wallow through the grass, they can be sightfished. Although most any fly will work, crab patterns are the fly of choice. These fish average from six to eight pounds.

Anglers wishing to catch these reds on their own can, although finding the fish concentrations in the enormous marsh system can be difficult for a newcomer. Look for oysters, Spartina grass, and mud flats that are all in close proximity. And I don't mean "mud" here. I mean mud "flats," an extensive shelf like area with a mud bottom. If the Spartina grass area has a cut into such as a small creek, or a lower "lip" that the fish can use as an access to get up there on the high tide, they will find it much more appealing.

Tackle needs are pretty simple. A nine to ten foot, seven- or eight-weight rod with a matching floating line and a seven to nine foot leader tapered to 15 pound test take care of your needs. Almost any kind of reel will work. The fish won't run far in the grass, so fancy reels are unnecessary.

The fish are in the grass looking for crabs and so crab flies are probably the best fly choice, but the fact is the reds will jump on almost anything that moves. Mike Leary showed us a "fly" he tied to show how unimportant pattern is. This fly, the "Leary Special", is nothing more than a short section of a chartreuse colored shoelace lashed to a hook with tying thread. Mike has caught several reds with this "fly," so you really don't need to sweat the pattern.

Once you find the fish, the stalk begins. Quietly move into the best position to present your fly in front of the fish. The fish constantly move around, so this isn't as easy as it might seem. On the other hand, the fish aren't terribly spooky, either. Once you think the fish can see the fly, a small movement imparted to the fly will usually draw an immediate strike.

The most difficult part of the entire equation is finding the fish. The marsh is huge, and most of it is devoid of fish. The best way to find them is to hire a good fly fishing guide like Russell Tharin. If you prefer to find them yourself, prepare to invest quite a bit of time searching.

You need to cruise through the marshes at low tide, looking for suitable staging areas for the fish to rest in at low water. According to Capt. Russell, these areas are primarily shallow mud flats that support oysters. The reds can find food here, and can use the oysters as shelter themselves when marauding porpoises come looking for fresh redfish. Tidal creeks that cut through the marsh are another necessary feature. The fish must have a way to access the grass fields, and these creeks serve as their highways. Maxx and I observed time and again while we fished with Russell that all the fish at one particular spot came into the marsh from the same creek, and would invariably head towards that same creek when spooked or hooked.

One must also have an absolute understanding of the tides and how they affect the fish, and how they are in turn affected by wind direction and atmospheric pressure. The fish can only access these grass fields on the very highest spring tides. The top of the marsh doesn't flood enough to let them in otherwise. Other factors being equal, these tides occur around the full and new moons, especially during the spring and fall.

Other factors aren't always equal, though. A rise of barometric pressure equalling one inch of mercury on the barometer will lower water levels eight to twelve inches. Certain wind directions will hold water out of the marsh, and other wind directions will push it higher, and keep it higher longer.

Redfish, seatrout, and flounder can all be caught in Cumberland Sound and the many tidal creeks that flow through the marsh. The water is loaded with sediment and is quite dark, so flies which push water or make some type of noise are preferred.

These salt marshes on the western side of Cumberland Island (over 10,000 acres of them) are one of the most productive habitats on earth, with ten times the fertility of an equal area of cultivated wheat. The prodigious growth of Spartina grasses support a vast and commercially valuable fishery and shellfishery, as well as an incredibly diverse number of air-breathing vertebrates. Cumberland Island is on the Atlantic Flyway and from fall through spring the marshes are alive with migratory shorebirds. Dolphins, mink, raccoons, and other mammals are found here as well. Due to the exceptional fertility of this marsh an angler will find an exploration of this area well worth his time.

During the fall, schools of finger mullet stream along the beach, turning the water black as they head south in response to shorter days and cooling waters. Hungry predators follow- jack crevalle, Spanish and king mackerel, redfish, crevalle, sharks, and others. At frequent intervals hundreds of mullet leap skyward in terror, showering out of the water, trying to escape the death that lunges after them from below.

Sadly, (from an angler's perspective, at least) the beach at Cumberland slopes rather gently. Consequently surf fishing there usually is not what it otherwise might be. During the mullet run though, the waters teem with fish. I've seen kingfish skyrocketing mullet within casting distance of the beach. Jacks are frequent catches. Redfish make up part of the catch, too. We got plenty of action from jacks with popping bugs and from reds with the various large streamers.

Cumberland's beach runs the length of the island. The dunes lining the western side of the beach are incredibly beautiful, especially around sunrise and sunset. Already mentioned are the horses that graze on the beach, ignoring you while you fish or look for shells. The horses prefer the beach during the spring and early summer to take advantage of tender new growth sprouting from the dunes.

Other animals also use the beach. Various shorebirds including terns and black skimmers nest there. Loggerhead sea turtles also nest on Cumberland's beaches. Wading birds feed in the surf. Ghost crab holes are common, and you will see plenty of raccoon tracks and maybe a marsh rabbit as you walk along.

Extending seaward from Cumberland's southern end like a long bony finger is the jetty that protects the ship channel running the length of Cumberland Sound. The submarines based at the Kings Bay Naval Station, located on the western side of the sound, need a deep channel for access to the Atlantic. In addition to providing egress for these subs, the jetty and channel serve as the finest kinds of fish attractors.

Sheepshead, black drum, flounder, redfish, and seatrout all provide a year-round fishery around these rocks. The redfish are often big breeders and sometimes top 40 pounds. Most of the local anglers fish with shrimp or other bait around the rocks and often do quite well. Flycasters will need at least a 400 grain sinking line, a big fly, and a plentiful supply of perseverance here.

Fish move through on a seasonal basis, too. Big oceanic jacks show up during the summer and can top 40 pounds. Fly tackle provides maximum sport, although a large hookless popping plug may be needed to excite them into striking.

Tarpon patrol the jetty all summer long, with some fish exceeding 100 pounds. Only a few locals try for these fish, usually by using mullet for bait. I imagine that these fish could be chummed up, although I don't know of anyone who has tried this here.

Spanish mackerel, little tunny (Florida bonito), and bluefish all show up at various times. The bonito are summer visitors, the blues prefer the cooler months, and the Spanish mackerel like the transition seasons. All of these species are excellent fly rod fare. There's also excellent fishing offshore for kingfish, cobia, dolphin, and other species which I haven't sampled.

The island is big and I've yet to explore it all. I've never even visited St. Andrews Sound. Here the Cumberland, Satilla, and Little Satilla Rivers all join and empty into the Atlantic, forming the largest inlet in Georgia. You don't need a Ph.D. in fisheries science to realize that an inlet like this will attract a lot of fish.

The opportunity to fly fish in what looks like a soggy wheat field for tailing redfish which average from six to eight pounds is not to be missed. When I brought my friend Barry Kent there, he was in awe of the entire event, repeating over and over, "This is the most unique fly fishing experience I've had in my entire life." Barry lived and fished in South Africa for seventeen years, so his opinions in this regard shouldn't be lightly dismissed.

Try fishing for reds in the grass. When you spot that first tail pop up out of the wheat, you just may be tempted to say, "Toto, I don't think we're in Kansas anymore."

Access, Accommodations, and Restaurants
Short of using a helicopter or skydiving Cumberland Island's only access is by water. Those towing their own boats can use the excellent municipal ramps in St. Marys. You reach St. Marys by taking Georgia exit 2 off of interstate 95. About a five mile trip east on Highway 40 will bring you to St. Marys' waterfront. You'll need NOAA nautical chart 11489, St. Simons Sound to Tolomato River.

Those without boats need not despair. The Cumberland Queen runs reasonably priced scheduled trips to Cumberland Island from the national seashore office in St. Marys. Call (912)882-4335 Monday through Friday between 10:00 AM and 4:00 PM for more information or to make reservations.

The more adventurous angler can camp on Cumberland Island itself. Those without boats can reach the island via the Cumberland Queen, which runs reasonably priced scheduled trips to Cumberland Island from the national seashore office in St. Marys. Call (912) 882-4335 Monday through Friday between 10:00 AM and 2:00 PM for more information or to make reservations.

The National Park Service maintains two different kinds of sites on the island. The developed campground at Sea Camp Beach has drinking water, restrooms, and cold water showers available, and campfires are allowed in the fireplaces provided. The backcountry camps at other numerous locations on the island only provide drinking water, and do not allow campfires. You must bring a portable stove. Reservations are required at all Cumberland Island campgrounds, and can be made by calling the number listed above.

Those wishing to stay in a hotel on the mainland will find plentiful accommodations, especially near I-95 in Kingsland. You can get more information by calling the Kingsland Convention and Visitors Bureau at 1-800-433-0225.

On Georgia Highway 42 in Kingsland there are a lot of places to eat. Many of the popular restaurant chains are here. Kingsland is about five miles from the boat ramp in St. Marys.

Fishing Guides
Anglers could trailer their boat to St. Marys and do some exploration on their own. Be sure to bring NOAA chart 11489. Or they might wish to hire a guide for a day or two to more quickly learn their way around. I recommend Capt. Russell Tharin, (904) 825-7982, www.flyfishingameliaisland.com. Tharin specializes in sightfishing, especially sightfishing with fly tackle, in Cumberland Sound and around Amelia Island.

Good luck, and enjoy your trip.

This article was written by John Kumiski of John Kumiski Outdoors and Travel. Contact him at his website www.johnkumiski.com or via email at john@spottedtail.com. Copyright John Kumiski.

John Kumiski 's most recent fishing guidebooks are How and Where to Catch Redfish in the Indian River Lagoon System (Argonaut Publishing Company), and Fishing Florida's Space Coast (Argonaut Publishing Company).

John Kumiski's newest book is Redfish on the Fly- A Comprehensive Guide.

File CIRedfish

Copyright © John Kumiski. 2007