by John Kumiski
When hotspots for redfish come to mind, most folks don't think of Jacksonville. The fishermen who live there would just as soon keep it that way, too. The creeks and salt marshes around Jacksonville have some of the best redfishing in the state of Florida, and this Special Report tells you what you need to know so you can find it!
-GEOGRAPHY
Jacksonville sits near the Atlantic coast on the St. Johns River. The river runs north, then turns and heads east to the sea. Right at this bend is where Jacksonville proper lies. Jacksonville Beach lies on the coast itself.
Most of the fishing we're interested in is to the east of Jacksonville proper, in the salt creeks and marshes off of the Intracoastal Waterway (ICW). Since the ICW is split into northern and southern sections relative to the St. Johns River, let's look at these sections individually.
-ICW SOUTH
Between Jacksonville and St. Augustine along SR A1A you'll find Guana River State Park. Once you enter the park and drive down the road you'll come to the Guana Dam, built across the Guana River in 1957. To the north of the dam the lake is 1/2 mile wide and 10 miles long. Redfish, seatrout, and freshwater species can all be caught here.
The fishing is basically blind-casting along the shoreline, however. You'll need a freshwater fishing license to fish the lake, and there's a 10 HP maximum restriction on outboard motors. A canoe will work well as a fishing boat anywhere in the park.
To the south of the dam the Guana River is tidal. The best fishing occurs (and this is true for most redfishing in the Jacksonville area, with one exception) when a low outgoing tide coincides with sunrise. The fish "back", cruising along the shoreline or oyster bars, often with their fins and back out of the water. They feed on shrimp, small minnows, and crabs, and make quite a commotion when they zero in on one of these hapless creatures. The disturbance they make can be seen and heard from a distance and will assist you in finding them.
Most fly fishers need a seven- or eight-weight rod with a floating line. Leaders should be at least nine feet long, and more is better. Black clouser minnows, #6, 4, and 2, are the most popular fly in the area for this particular type of fishing.
This fishing is very challenging. You need exceptional casting accuracy to be successful. The idea is to place the bait in the fish's path, close enough that it can see it in the murky water, but not so close that the fish blows out. Since the fish are in such shallow water for only one reason, they'll usually strike if the presentation was good. The fish range from about 18 to 28 inches, with smaller or larger specimens caught infrequently. Once the tide rises above the oyster bars, the fishing is done. You can safely go find something else to do, secure in the knowledge that fishing is over.
MOST OF THE BACKCOUNTRY REDFISHING IN THE JACKSONVILLE AREA IS EXACTLY LIKE WHAT WAS JUST DESCRIBED. With one exception, since the fishing is all similar, we'll spend the rest of our time discussing locations.
Off of US 1 four or five miles south of Jacksonville you'll see a sign for the Pine Island Fish Camp. Turn here and follow a dirt road east for several miles. You can launch a boat here and get access to the ICW. Once on the ICW turn and run north. Most of the shallow creeks along here hold backing redfish at the low tide stages. Stop at each creek mouth, look up into it to determine its depth, and look for and listen for fish feeding. Since the fish move around, there's no way to predict exactly where they'll be. You have to look.
-ICW NORTH
North of Jacksonville lies an extensive marsh and creek system. Simpson Creek, Sisters Creek, Clapboard Creek, Browns Creek, and Fitzpatrick Creek all have backing redfish on low tide phases. Again the best time is early in the morning.
Like the places described earlier, you must have a boat to fish these areas. Jonboats, because of their shallow draft and relative indestructability, work best. There are numerous fish camps along SR 105 which have boat ramps which give access to these creeks for a small launch fee. There is also a large public ramp on Sisters Creek. This ramp is very popular and gets very crowded on weekends. Many of these areas are manatee slow speed zones- watch for signs.
In general, when fishing Clapboard, Browns, or the feeders of the Sisters Creek system, you want to go up into the marsh where the shallow mud flats and oyster bars are. This is where you'll find the backing fish. Keep in mind that all of these creeks are loaded with oyster shoals. If you go zooming through here without knowing where you're going you can do some serious damage to your boat and maybe to yourself. Be careful.
-Sisters Creek
You can fish the shorelines of Sisters Creek at higher tide phases, blindcasting with a heavy Clouser minnow and letting it sink into deeper water as it moves out from shore. Cast directly to any fish you may see, which may include some big jack crevalle. Since this is part of the ICW you'll have quite a bit of boat traffic. Some of the vessels are quite large, and put up a big wake. This always seems to bother me more than the fish, though.
-Reds in the Grass
Another fishery which is unique to the Jacksonville backcountry (in Florida, at any rate) is sightfishing for redfish in the flooded salt marsh on flood tides. Many of the areas off of Sisters Creek provide this type of fishing. This angling is accessed by boat*, but is done primarily by wading. Look for islands in the saltmarsh, then anchor the boat and get out and wade, looking for fish.
This fishing happens ONLY during spring tides, around the time of the full or new moons. The water must flood the marsh or the fish can't get in!
The reds come up into the flooded marsh looking for crabs, especially fiddlers. Needless to say, a bait which looks like a crab is the ticket here. Fly fishers can use many different types of crab flies. My own favorites are the Merkin Crab fly and Dupre's Spoon Fly in gold.
The fish are easy to see, waking and tailing in the flooded marsh. They're up in the grass looking for food and are not very spooky. If you're quiet you can usually get within 30 feet or so of them and cast repeatedly until they see the fly. They almost always take. These fish, like the backing fish, average from 18 to 28 inches. They won't run very far in the grass, so an expensive reel with a lot of backing isn't needed.
*I haven't tried this myself, but I've been told that the Fort George River and Simpsons Creek, accessed from SR 105 in the vicinity of Little Talbot Island State Park, provides action for reds in the grass on flood tides for those without boats.This fishing is very special and should be experienced by anyone lucky enough to be in the area when conditions are right.
-Little Talbot Island State Park
Although not usually considered backcountry, the beaches of Little Talbot Island State Park offer another unique sightfishing opportunity for redfish. In Nassau Sound you can actually walk the beach, see redfish in the water, and cast flies to them. If they haven't seen you first they'll usually eat.
You need bigger tackle here than in the backcountry. Nine- and ten-weight rods with monocore lines are best. You do need a reel with sufficient backing here, too. Not only do these ocean side fish appear to be turbocharged, they reach sizes in excess of twenty pounds.
You need flies which sink fast to cut through the wave turbulence. Although a heavy Clouser minnow will work, one of the most popular patterns here is known as a Surfin' Wooly. This heavily weighted fly has a tail of neck hackles, a chenille body, and Palmered hackle over the chenille, and is usually tied on hooks from size 1/0 to 3/0.
You can access the area by launching at the Sisters Creek boat ramp and running north up the Intracoastal to Nassau Sound. This allows you to fish the islands at the mouth of the sound. Otherwise, you can drive to Little Talbot Island State Park and walk (or bicycle) up to the sound, about two miles.
One mistake which I see beginners to this fishing making over and over again is getting out into the water. You hardly need to get your feet wet. If you're in over your knees you're out too far. If you visit during the summer months the large numbers of sharks in the water will probably act as a deterrent anyway.
If the sighting conditions are good you simply walk along the beach looking for fish. When you see them you cast to them. It's rather elementary.
Sometimes the sighting conditions are poor. The water may be dirty, or the waves too big, or the sky overcast, or a combination of factors. In this situation you can blindcast and hope for the best, but success is much less likely. However, giving up will get you nothing. Maybe you could try for the many sharks!
Fly Shops
Jacksonville has an excellent full service fly shop, the Salty Feather, located at 2683 St. Johns Bluff Rd. # 127, Jacksonville, FL., 32246. Their phone number is (904) 645-8998, www.saltyfeather.com. The person to talk to is John Bottko.
Guides
You may be thinking that with all the oyster bars lurking in the shallows, waiting for a chance to bite off your lower unit, you maybe should hire a guide. Good idea! There are many in the Jacksonville area, but not many cater to fly fishers. Capt.Larry Miniard does, and can be reached at (904) 285-7003, www.redfishanglers.com.
Another guide who offers a quality angling experience a little farther to the north is Capt.Russell Tharin, who fishes the Amelia Island/Cumberland Sound area. He can be reached at (904) 825-7982, www.flyfishingameliaisland.com.
Capt. John Bottko, owner of the Salty Feather Fly Shop just already mentioned, is also a good fly fishing guide.
The State Parks
Little Talbot Island State Park offers many activities, including camping. I believe you can rent canoes there as well. For more information call them at (904) 251-3231.
Guana River State Park is strictly a day use area. Their phone number is (904) 825-5071.
Conclusion
This Special Report has shared with you the secrets of how and where to catch Jacksonville's redfish on flies. Put the information to use! Get out there and explore! Let me know how you do!
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This article was written by John Kumiski of John Kumiski Outdoors and Travel. Contact him at his website www.johnkumiski.com or via email at john@spottedtail.com. Copyright John Kumiski.
John Kumiski 's most recent fishing guidebooks are How and Where to Catch Redfish in the Indian River Lagoon System (Argonaut Publishing Company), and Fishing Florida's Space Coast (Argonaut Publishing Company).
John Kumiski's newest book is Redfish on the Fly- A Comprehensive Guide.
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