by John Kumiski
A brilliant July sun blazed down from overhead, while clear, cool, emerald water lapped at my feet. Looking ominous, a blacktip shark swam sinuously along the beach. Spanish mackerel periodically chased glass minnows to the surface beyond the casting range of anyone on foot, chopping into the hapless baitfish for only a few moments before disappearing back into the mysterious blue depths. But all these were only distractions. We were hunting for redfish- big, sea-run bright, hungry, healthy redfish.
When that time of the year comes along where the noontime sun hovers over the Tropic of Cancer, daytime temperatures in Florida are consistently in the mid to upper nineties. They remain there for months. The air, besides being hot, is loaded with moisture. Vicious afternoon thunderstorms become a daily occurrence. Most sane people stay indoors or lounge around a swimming pool during this kind of weather.
But the winds often stay quiet, and the seas remain calm, and for those who know where and how to find them, redfish lurk in shallow water along the beach. They can be seen, stalked, cast to, and caught on flies. The heck with sanity- we flyfishers know it's highly overrated anyway.
Where
Nassau Sound lies south of the Georgia state line, north of Jacksonville. Surrounded by land preserved as state parks, the mouth of the sound remains wild and undeveloped, some of the last stretches of such untouched barrier islands remaining in the state of Florida. And although many species of fishes lurk in the depths of the Sound, it was the reports about the redfishing in the surf that I got from John Bottko that first drew me up to this area.
Tackle
Tackle needs for this fishing are simple. Nine foot eight- or nine-weight rods with matching reels and weight-forward lines serve admirably. Long casts may be required in order to search the water on those days when visibility is hampered due to clouds, but ordinarily short casts are the rule. Since this is primarily sightfishing and the fish cannot be seen from very far away, casts are typically quite short, 30 or 40 feet.
Although some casters prefer a floating lines for this work, the monocore or slime lines have some advantages. Even during the summer months some wave action remains. After all, this IS the Atlantic we're fishing in here. The slime lines sink beneath the waves, minimizing their effects on the line and fly. And although the truly erudite caster would never allow the fish to see his flyline, the transparent nature of the monocore line does allow a little more margin for error should a cast go just a little too far.
Leaders should be as long as conditions allow, with ten feet being a minimum length when the surf is calm. These fish are in shallow water and their survival depends on their being aware of what is going on around them. Even with a slime line, a heavy splashdown nearby sounds just a little too much like death from above. Longer leaders are more effective.
Class tippets could range anywhere from the eight to sixteen pound test range, depending on the preference of the angler. Heavier leaders allow you to take the fight to the fish, shortening the battle and improving the chances for post-release survival. These sea-run fish fight with a lot of heart- try to stress them as little as possible. A short section of shock tippet in the twenty to thirty pound test range is recommended to combat abrasion during the contest.
John Bottko, who introduced me to this fishery, gave me several recommendations as far as flies for reds in the Sound. When conditions are perfect fly selection is simple- most minnow imitations will work. Most of the time though, wave action will hold unweighted flies up over the fish even in shallow water. John has developed a weighted minnow pattern he calls a Surf'n Wooly which cuts through the waves and gets down to the fish's level. Larger sized Clouser minnows will work, as will any other minnow imitation which will sink quickly.
John has examined the stomach contents of several Nassau Sound reds and he typically finds fairly large baitfish in them, so a minnow imitation does make sense. He also tells me that at certain times loads of small blue crabs will be found along the beach, providing some fine eating for the fish. Fast sinking crab imitations should be carried by the flyfisher in case this opportunity should present itself.
One piece of equipment which any flyrod surfcaster anywhere will find handy in some situations and indispensable in others is a stripping basket. Although commercially produced baskets are available, most of those I see around the Florida coast are homemade from either laundry baskets or dishpans. My own model is a full-sized laundry basket. Many large holes have been drilled in the bottom to facilitate drainage. An old belt threaded underneath the rim holds the device in place.
Bottko's recommendation to me was that bigger baskets are hardly any more trouble than smaller ones to carry, and allow a much easier retrieve. The line falls from the line hand directly into the stripping basket regardless of the length of the strip, since the basket is so large. And while I admit I often feel a little self-conscious walking along the beach with a laundry basket attached to my waist, it's quickly forgotten when the fish are spotted. A fly fisherman will find few things more frustrating than seeing a school of nice fish in front of him while he's unable to cast because waves have wrapped the line around his ankles!
Techniques
Although the fish can be found in the Sound most of the year, this fishery is at its best during the summer months. As mentioned above, the weather and seas are most amenable then to flyrodding in the surf. Also, clean water and bright sunlight allow the angler to visually hunt his quarry, making for some intensely exciting angling. Needless to say, high quality polarized sunglasses and a hat are absolute necessities for seeing into the water. Sunscreen is important too, as sighting conditions are best when the sun is high in the sky.
The preferred fishing method consists of walking along the beach looking for the fish. The beach could be on the "mainland", or out on the islands (sand bars, really) at the mouth of the sound. The fish might be singles or may be in schools as large as hundreds of individuals, an obvious bonanza.
These fish, as stated earlier, have to be aware of their surroundings. When the angler spots a group of fish multiple hookups will be possible only if he hides his presence by crouching down. I once made the mistake of forgetting that these fish could see me quite clearly. From a school of about 50 fish I got only one, and it was a small one at that. I so wanted to see them eat my fly I forgot they could also see me, and I chased them out to sea with my clumsy approach. Don't make this mistake.
Whether the fish is a single or there is a group, when they are cruising give the fly time to settle by leading them. If the fly is not actually on the bottom, it should be close. Make sure the fly will move away from the fish and not at them when you start to retrieve. The fly should resemble something which has realized it is in trouble and is trying to escape. Redfish, like most predators, have a hard time passing up what appears to be an easy meal.
Should luck come your way and you find a school of fish milling around, try to pick off fish around the edge of the school. Often times the others will not realize there is a problem for quite a while and you can stay in fish for a long time. Pull a fish or two out of the middle of the pack, and most of the others will head out to sea in a hurry.
If the sun is low in the sky or obscured by clouds, or if the water is dirty, fish can still be taken by blind casting. Simply chuck the fly out as far as you can and retrieve it before repeating the process. Keep looking for fish while you do this. Enough fish will be raised this way to make it worthwhile, but it definitely is not as much fun as sightfishing for them. Frankly, if you have to fish this way spinning tackle is more effective.
Tides make a difference, too. Bottko prefers the last two hours of the incoming tide. Not only do the fish push up closest to shore under these conditions but the water is cleanest then too, making sightfishing most effective. As the tide drops, the tannin-stained waters of Nassau Sound start emptying into the sea, discoloring the water and making spotting fish difficult.
Safety Considerations
Sharks cruise along these beaches. Some are brutes. They will sometimes attack redfish that are hooked up, leaving a disappointingly small piece for the angler. While I in no way believe the popular "Jaws" misconception that all sharks always look for any unwary humans to dine on, certainly some caution is warranted when the surf is full of them. Keep an open eye, and marvel at these magnificent animals as they swim past. You might even try throwing a fly at them to see what they will do.
One other potential danger confronts the summer beach flyrodder- lightning. I love fishing as much as anyone, but it's not worth passing a million volts through my body for. When those towering clouds start heading your way, get smart and find shelter.
Warren Hinrichs spotted some fish. In a flash his line was in the air, a tight loop carrying a counterfeit minnow toward his newly found target. As the fly settled into the green water, a hungry redfish peeled out of the pack and greedily tried to eat it. The fight was on.
Nassau Sound is a unique and exciting redfishery. Sample its delights- you'll be back for more.
GETTING THERE
Although boaters have the obvious advantage of being able to work more locations in a shorter time, anglers without boats can also get in on this action. On the south side of Nassau Sound lies Little Talbot Island State Park. The park entrance is off of S.R. A1A, 17 miles north of Jacksonville. After entering the park, stop at the first parking lot and cross the dunes to the beach. Work your way north to reach the mouth of the Sound. The phone number at the park is (904) 251-3231.
On the north side of the Sound is Amelia Island State Recreation Area, seven miles north of Little Talbot Island State Park and also on A1A. Again, simply walk along the beach in the "fish search" mode. The phone number here is (904) 261-4212.
Boaters can reach the mouth of Nassau Sound by launching at the public ramp on the southwest side of the Fort George River off S.R. 105 north of Jacksonville. Follow the Intracoastal Waterway north to Nassau Sound. All of the little islands out in the Sound will hold fish at times. Anchor on the bayside of these islands, walk over to the ocean side, and start looking.
Best of luck, and enjoy your trip.
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This article was written by John Kumiski of John Kumiski Outdoors and Travel. Contact him at his website www.johnkumiski.com or via email at john@spottedtail.com. Copyright John Kumiski.
John Kumiski 's most recent fishing guidebooks are How and Where to Catch Redfish in the Indian River Lagoon System (Argonaut Publishing Company), and Fishing Florida's Space Coast (Argonaut Publishing Company).
John Kumiski's newest book is Redfish on the Fly- A Comprehensive Guide.
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